Vetyver by Lanvin c1964

Vétyver by Lanvin: launched in 1964. In USA by 1966. Also referred to as Vetyver de Lanvin.

Lanvin Perfume Ad c1958

from a 1958 John Plain Co publication.

Crescendo by Lanvin c1958

Crescendo by Lanvin: launched in 1958, but the name was trademarked in 1939 as the perfume reportedly took 20 years to be perfected by Andre Fraysse.

My Sin by Lanvin c1924

The design house of Lanvin was a pioneer in the perfume industry, among the first to offer fragrances as part of a broader collection. One of its most intriguing and evocative creations was My Sin, launched in 1924. Initially trademarked in Paris under the name Mon Péché, the perfume was reintroduced to the United States under the name My Sin in 1925, where it became an immediate success. But why choose the name "My Sin"? What does it convey? The phrase is an English expression, pronounced as “my sin”. The word “sin” typically refers to an immoral act or a transgression against divine law, which imbues the name with a sense of forbidden allure. The term evokes imagery of guilt, temptation, and indulgence, appealing to the more decadent, daring side of femininity. It suggests a transgressive pleasure, as if the wearer is embracing a small, personal rebellion or flirtation with the idea of excess.

The name would have stirred emotions of both allure and danger. The word “sin” in this context could be seen as a metaphor for the powerful and irresistible appeal of the fragrance, suggesting something that women might be tempted to wear to make a statement or to evoke a sense of mystery and sophistication. The emotions it evokes are undoubtedly complex — combining the allure of something forbidden with the excitement of indulging in one’s desires. The name could have resonated with women seeking an expression of both independence and sensuality in the 1920s, a time when women were breaking free from previous social constraints and embracing new, liberated identities.

1924, the year My Sin was created, was during the roaring 1920s, a period characterized by exuberance, hedonism, and a dramatic shift in societal norms. Known as the Jazz Age, this time period saw women, dubbed flappers, shedding the restrictive fashions of the previous century and embracing shorter hair, shorter skirts, and more relaxed styles. The era was marked by the rise of the Art Deco movement, which celebrated modernity, innovation, and sleek, geometric designs. Women during this period were becoming more liberated, both socially and sexually, embracing their freedom to express themselves in new ways. My Sin, with its bold name and daring fragrance, would have resonated strongly with these women, who were willing to experiment with their appearances and behavior, making a statement that combined sophistication with a hint of rebellion. To wear My Sin would be to embrace the sensual, confident, and sometimes audacious spirit of the time.

My Sin was created through a collaboration between Firmenich and Madame Maria Zede, an experienced nose working with Gabilla Perfumerie. Gabilla had originally introduced the perfume in 1920, but it was under the direction of Jeanne Lanvin that it became a global sensation. Lanvin's keen understanding of the American market, combined with her ability to work with experienced perfume houses, helped My Sin transcend its initial failure in Paris and become a hit in the United States. According to Charles Panati in Extraordinary Origins of Everyday Things, Lanvin took what had initially failed in Paris and "capitalized on the American desire for French perfumes," renaming it My Sin and turning it into a resounding success in America. The perfume's success was not just due to its scent but also its association with French glamour, luxury, and artistry, making it immensely appealing to American women during the 1920s.

Cross Country c1925

Launched in 1925, Lanvin's "Cross Country" emerged in a vibrant era for fragrances, where the market was burgeoning with diverse and innovative scents. During the 1920s, the perfume industry was rich with the influence of Art Deco aesthetics and a growing fascination with exotic and daring combinations. The period saw a trend towards bold, memorable fragrances that could encapsulate the zeitgeist of modernity and sophistication.

"Cross Country" by Lanvin, created by Madame Marie Zéde, was distinctive within this context. The name itself, "Cross Country," evoked a sense of adventure and exploration, reflecting the expanding horizons of the 1920s when travel and global experiences were becoming increasingly accessible. Unlike many fragrances of the time that were named with French elegance or sophistication in mind, Lanvin's choice to use an English name marked a deliberate nod to the growing American market and international audience. This choice not only broadened the perfume's appeal but also aligned with the era's increasing cultural exchange.

The phrase "Cross Country" suggests a journey or voyage across diverse landscapes, which could be interpreted as a metaphor for the fragrance's ability to evoke different facets of a woman's personality or mood. This name might have resonated with women of the time as a symbol of freedom and the spirit of adventure, mirroring their own aspirations for new experiences and exploration. It also invoked images of scenic travels and the thrill of discovering new places, aligning with the modern, adventurous ethos of the 1920s.

In the realm of perfume, "Cross Country" would have been seen as a fragrance that encapsulated the dynamic spirit of the age—bold, versatile, and in tune with the expanding global influences of the time. It would have appealed to women seeking a scent that was both sophisticated and evocative of a broader world, resonating with the era's fascination with travel and cultural discovery.

Lanvin Perfume Tester Racks

Lanvin Perfumes Shown in a 1947 Ad

Ads for Arpege, My Sin and Scandal

Géranium D'Espagne by Lanvin c1925

In 1925, when Géranium D'Espagne was launched, the world of perfumery was flourishing with innovation and creativity. The Roaring Twenties, characterized by economic prosperity, cultural dynamism, and a break from traditional norms, provided fertile ground for the creation of new and daring fragrances. This era saw the emergence of perfumes that were bolder and more complex, reflecting the liberated spirit of the time. Houses like Chanel, with its groundbreaking No. 5, and Guerlain, with its opulent Shalimar, were setting trends with their sophisticated compositions.

Géranium D'Espagne entered this vibrant market with its fresh, spicy floral profile. It stood out with dominant notes of geranium and rose, offering a unique blend of floral freshness and spicy warmth. While many fragrances of the time were exploring the realms of aldehydes and exotic oriental notes, Géranium D'Espagne embraced a more botanical and naturalistic approach, celebrating the essence of its key floral ingredients.

The name Géranium D'Espagne is French, translating to "Geranium of Spain" in English. This name choice reflects a sense of exoticism and romanticism associated with Spain, a country known for its vibrant culture, rich history, and beautiful landscapes. By naming the perfume after Spanish geraniums, Parfums Lanvin likely aimed to evoke the warm, sunny climate of Spain, with its picturesque gardens and aromatic plants.

The use of "D'Espagne" (of Spain) imbues the fragrance with a sense of place and origin, suggesting a connection to the natural beauty and traditional floral scents of Spain. This choice would appeal to women seeking a touch of the exotic and the allure of far-off places, resonating with the wanderlust and adventurous spirit of the 1920s.

Vintage 1950s-1960s Lanvin Perfume Tester Display Rack

Vintage 1950s-1960s Lanvin perfume tester counter display rack, made up of black Lucite. Glass bottles held Pretexte, My Sin and Arpege.

Photo from ebay seller requester20

Lanvin Arpege Atomizers

Lanvin Arpege Atomizer Ad c1978

Lanvin Arpege Atomizer Ad c1982

Lanvin Bottles Ad c1977

This ad is from 1977 and shows the bottle shape and label style of the 1970s.

Lanvin ad 1943

Scandal by Lanvin c1931

Scandal by Lanvin, launched in 1931, emerged during a dynamic period in the perfume industry. This era saw the rise of bold, complex fragrances that reflected the changing social and cultural landscapes. The 1920s and early 1930s were marked by the aftermath of World War I, the rise of the Art Deco movement, and a burgeoning sense of modernity and freedom. Perfumes of this time, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Guerlain's Shalimar (1925), often pushed the boundaries of traditional perfumery with innovative compositions and daring names.

Scandal, classified as a spicy, leather chypre fragrance, distinguished itself with its rich, mossy sandalwood base. While many fragrances of the time embraced floral and aldehydic notes, Scandal's bold combination of spice, leather, and chypre elements set it apart. The fragrance was both luxurious and provocative, capturing the spirit of an era that celebrated both opulence and rebellion. The inclusion of leather notes, in particular, added a daring, sensual edge that resonated with the increasingly liberated and adventurous women of the early 1930s.

The choice of the name "Scandal" by Parfums Lanvin was a masterstroke in marketing and branding. The word "scandal" itself, derived from the Latin "scandalum," meaning a cause of offense or stumbling block, immediately evokes notions of controversy, intrigue, and allure. In the context of a perfume, "Scandal" suggested a fragrance that was unapologetically bold and captivating, designed to turn heads and provoke strong reactions. The name implied a break from convention, an invitation to embrace one's inner audacity and charm.

Women in the 1930s, navigating a world that was increasingly modern and dynamic, would likely have been drawn to the daring promise of a perfume named Scandal. This was a time when women were becoming more independent, exploring new social freedoms, and challenging traditional norms. Scandal, with its rich, spicy, and leather notes, would have been perceived as a symbol of empowerment and sophistication. It offered an olfactory expression of confidence and allure, perfect for the modern woman who was unafraid to make a statement.

Pretexte by Lanvin c1937

Pretexte by Lanvin was launched in 1937, a time when the perfume industry was experiencing significant innovation and change. The 1930s were marked by economic recovery following the Great Depression, leading to a resurgence in luxury goods, including fragrances. Perfume houses were experimenting with more complex and sophisticated compositions, often combining floral and chypre notes to create multifaceted scents.

Pretexte was unique in its classification as an ambery floral chypre fragrance for women, blending the timeless bouquet of jasmine and roses with a chypre base that included fresh greens and warm, precious woody notes. This composition offered a harmonious balance between the floral and earthy elements, appealing to women seeking both elegance and a touch of opulence in their perfumes.

Parfums Lanvin chose the name "Pretexte" for its evocative and intriguing nature. "Pretexte" is a French word meaning "pretext" or "excuse." This name suggests a fragrance that provides an excuse or a reason for indulgence, inviting women to embrace moments of luxury and sophistication.

La Dogaresse by Lanvin c1923

La Dogaresse by Lanvin, launched in 1923, emerged during a vibrant and transitional period in perfumery. The early 1920s were marked by a fascination with both innovation and classicism in fragrance, reflecting the broader cultural shifts of the Roaring Twenties. During this time, perfumes were increasingly complex, with many houses exploring new scent combinations and materials. La Dogaresse, with its rich, evocative character, fit well within this context, blending the allure of historical romance with contemporary sophistication.

The name "La Dogaresse" was chosen by Parfums Lanvin to evoke the grandeur and opulence associated with Venice's historical aristocracy. The term "dogaresse" refers to the wife or female counterpart of a "doge," the chief magistrate and leader of the Venetian Republic. In French, "La Dogaresse" translates directly to "The Dogaresse." This name suggests a connection to the regal and historic ambiance of Venice, embodying the elegance and prestige of its palazzos.

La Dogaresse’s association with Venice is deeply intertwined with its historical and cultural significance. Venice, with its palatial architecture and storied past, provides a luxurious backdrop that aligns well with the sophisticated nature of the fragrance. The name evokes images of grand, opulent interiors and the timeless elegance of Venetian nobility.

For women of the time, La Dogaresse would likely have been seen as a symbol of sophistication and grace, capturing the romantic and exotic allure of Venice. The fragrance would have appealed to those who sought to embody the glamour and refinement associated with the city's aristocratic heritage. The name "La Dogaresse" thus evokes emotions of luxury and nostalgia, with the perfume itself potentially conjuring the sophisticated scent profiles of an elaborate Venetian ballroom.

In the context of perfume, "La Dogaresse" implies a fragrance with depth and complexity, reflecting the high status and refined taste of its namesake. The perfume would have been interpreted as both a tribute to historical elegance and a modern expression of luxury, catering to a clientele that appreciated the intersection of history, culture, and sophistication.