When Jeanne Lanvin launched Arpège in 1927, she chose a name that resonated deeply with her personal life and artistic vision. The word "Arpège," derived from the French term for "arpeggio," refers to the musical technique of playing notes in succession rather than simultaneously, creating a graceful cascade of sound. Pronounced "ahr-PEZH" (with a soft "zh" sound, like the French word "beige"), the name evokes images of harmonious beauty and lyrical refinement. It was a fitting tribute to Lanvin's only daughter, Marie-Blanche, a talented pianist and the muse behind much of her work. The name Arpège captures the essence of music, art, and maternal devotion, reflecting Lanvin’s desire to create a fragrance as timeless and elegant as a masterful melody.
In 1927, the world was in the midst of the Roaring Twenties, a decade defined by exuberance, modernity, and cultural transformation. Known as the Art Deco period, this era celebrated bold, geometric designs, lavish ornamentation, and the fusion of art and craftsmanship. Women were embracing newfound freedoms: short haircuts, flapper dresses, and an unapologetic sense of sophistication. Perfume became a powerful accessory, reflecting a woman's identity and the luxurious glamour of the time. Against this backdrop, Arpège stood out as a beacon of refinement, offering an olfactory representation of the elegance and artistry that Lanvin epitomized.
For women of the time, a perfume named Arpège likely carried an air of sophistication and cultural cachet. The name evoked images of concert halls, grand pianos, and the artistry of classical music—a connection that spoke to the intellectual and artistic aspirations of the modern woman. Wearing Arpège would have felt like stepping into a world of cultivated elegance, a reminder of the beauty that could be found in both art and life.
In scent, the concept of "Arpège" is interpreted as a harmonious composition, with each note playing its part in a symphonic arrangement. Created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher, Arpège utilized over 60 natural ingredients to craft a fragrance as complex and nuanced as a musical masterpiece. The opening is an exaltation of aldehydes, bright and sparkling, paired with the crisp citrus of bergamot and the honeyed sweetness of neroli. These notes create an airy, radiant overture that sets the stage for the heart of the fragrance.
The heart is a lush floral bouquet, led by the classic pairing of Bulgarian rose and jasmine from Grasse—two of the most precious and enduring symbols of perfumery. These are accompanied by a symphony of vibrant blossoms: lily of the valley brings a delicate freshness, lilac adds a powdery charm, and Dutch blue hyacinth contributes a sweet, green vitality. Camellia and ylang-ylang enhance the creamy richness, while honeysuckle and narcissus lend a warm, golden glow. A touch of coriander and clove spice the florals, adding depth and intrigue. In the background, whispers of orris root, syringa, and peach soften the composition, creating a soft, velvety texture.
The base of Arpège anchors the fragrance with warmth and sensuality. Powdery Tibetan musk and dreamy amber envelop the wearer like a soft embrace, while earthy patchouli and creamy Mysore sandalwood ground the composition. Sweet balsamic infusions of vanilla and benzoin add a rich, velvety sweetness, creating a lingering finish that is both luxurious and comforting.
In the context of 1927, Arpège was both a product of its time and a trailblazer. Floral aldehydic fragrances were gaining popularity, thanks to the success of Chanel No. 5 in the 1920s. However, Arpège distinguished itself with its intricate, multilayered composition and its emphasis on natural ingredients, which lent the fragrance a richness and authenticity that set it apart. It was not merely a perfume but an olfactory symphony—a testament to Lanvin's artistry and her dedication to creating beauty in all its forms.
With its name, composition, and cultural resonance, Arpège remains a timeless masterpiece, embodying the elegance and sophistication of an era while continuing to captivate modern wearers.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, Dutch blue hyacinth, neroli, Japanese camellia, coriander, clove, honeysuckle and peach
- Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, lilac, syringa, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, camellia and lily of the valley
- Base notes: musk ambrette, Ambrarome, Ambrein, spices, vanilla, iris, patchouli, ambergris, benzoin, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood (8%), vetiveryl acetate (10%), coumarin (1.5%), vanillin and vetiver
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Arpege by Lanvin: Warm and subtle. Dominant note: rare flower, jasmine."
Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"Arpege, very refined, since it sits at your fingertips; a true accord of flowers, fruits, leaves and furs."
La Femme Chic, 1945:
"Arpege by Lanvin is difficult to describe: it smells of flowers, fruits, fur and leaves at the same time. It’s a real bouquet of fresh and warm notes; it has been defined as 'the living perfume that beautifies'; charming and fair definition, but which does not only suit him, because it would also apply very well to Requête for example, so fresh, so young, eighth but not last chapter of the true 'roman de la rose' written by Worth with its perfumes; Dans la Nuit, Vers le Jour, Sans Adieu, Je Reviens, Vers Toi, Projets, Imprudence...This sweet Request is sure to be very well received."
Combat, 1955:
"Arpège by Lanvin is a symphony of notes—tenacious yet refined—that evoke the magic of unforgettable celebrations. At its heart, the exalted beauty of jasmine from Grasse shines brightly, paired with the regal, exotic charm of Bulgarian rose. Softer, yet equally captivating, are the delicate notes of wild lily of the valley, the golden sweetness of honeysuckle, the creamy elegance of Japanese camellia, and the aquatic freshness of Dutch blue hyacinth. These are all underpinned by the sensual, dreamlike depth of ambergris. This aristocratic and voluptuous composition is elevated by a singular aldehyde, adding a sparkling vibrancy that makes it equally enchanting whether worn on the warmest summer days or in the chill of winter. An olfactory masterpiece, Arpège is as timeless as it is unforgettable."
Scent Profile:
The opening of Arpège is a luminous symphony, where aldehydes take center stage, exuding an airy sparkle like the first rays of sunlight scattering over a crystal-clear lake. These effervescent molecules carry an almost soapy brightness, setting a clean and uplifting tone that feels both elegant and invigorating.
Their radiance is softened by the citrusy embrace of bergamot, a zesty burst of bittersweet freshness with a slightly floral undertone. Dutch blue hyacinth joins the melody, adding a green and aquatic floralcy, as though you've just stepped into a dew-kissed spring garden. The delicate sweetness of neroli lends a tender, orange-blossom nuance, weaving a thread of honeyed warmth into the composition.
As the opening evolves, the exotic Japanese camellia introduces a creamy, petal-like softness, reminiscent of an untouched bloom just unfurled. Coriander follows with its subtle peppery heat, a dry spiciness that adds a whisper of intrigue. Clove amplifies this warmth with its rich, almost medicinal spiciness, grounding the brightness of the aldehydes and citrus. Honeysuckle’s golden sweetness drapes over the scent like sunshine on a warm afternoon, blending seamlessly with the succulent ripeness of peach, whose soft, velvety aroma lends a fruity, slightly gourmand touch to the top.
In the heart of Arpège, the flowers reach their full orchestral bloom. Grasse jasmine unfurls its lush, heady fragrance, a timeless symbol of sensuality and elegance. Lilac offers a powdery, almost nostalgic softness, conjuring images of springtime memories. Syringa, often likened to orange blossom, introduces a creamy, slightly spicy floral accent that feels both fresh and comforting.
Bulgarian rose takes center stage with its deep, velvety richness, an opulent aroma that is both romantic and regal. Ylang-ylang adds a tropical flair, its creamy sweetness balancing the intensity of the rose and jasmine. Camellia reappears here, enhancing the lush bouquet with its smooth, petal-like texture. Finally, lily of the valley contributes its fresh, green floralcy, a crisp and airy note that dances lightly over the heavier blooms.
As the florals begin to fade, the base notes emerge, grounding the fragrance with their depth and complexity. Musk ambrette introduces a soft, slightly nutty warmth, while Ambrarome and Ambrein offer resinous, balsamic richness, evoking the glow of amber-colored light. Spices add a final whisper of exotic heat, seamlessly transitioning into the sweeter facets of the base. Vanilla lends a creamy, velvety sweetness, accented by the earthy, root-like powderiness of iris. Patchouli’s dark, woody character emerges with a faint camphorous edge, adding depth and mystery.
Ambergris adds a salty, marine warmth, creating a sensual, almost animalic undertone. Benzoin enhances this richness with its resinous sweetness, reminiscent of caramel and warm balsam. Tibetan musk, soft and powdery, wraps the composition in a sensuous, velvety embrace. Mysore sandalwood, at an impressive 8%, infuses the base with its smooth, creamy, and slightly smoky aroma, anchoring the fragrance with unparalleled luxury. Vetiveryl acetate, at 10%, contributes a green, woody freshness, accentuating the earthiness of vetiver itself. Coumarin introduces a subtle hay-like sweetness, while vanillin enriches the composition with its creamy, comforting warmth.
Together, these elements create a base that is both sensual and sophisticated, the perfect counterpoint to the luminous opening and opulent heart. The result is a fragrance that feels timeless yet modern, a true symphony of scent that captures the elegance, depth, and artistry of Arpège. Each ingredient plays its role in this olfactory masterpiece, leaving an indelible impression of beauty and harmony.
Bottles:
The iconic presentation of Arpège by Lanvin is as enchanting as the fragrance itself. Originally introduced in a black, spherical Art Deco flacon known as the Flacon Boule, this elegant bottle was the work of designer Armand-Albert Rateau and produced by the prestigious Verrières Brosse. The sleek black glass provided a dramatic backdrop for the gilded decorative details, making the design as timeless and luxurious as the scent it held. Rare examples of the flacon were made of clear crystal, accented with the same gilded embellishments, offering a stunning alternative to the opaque black version.
The stopper of the Flacon Boule underwent notable transformations over the decades. Early versions featured a gilded, textured stopper shaped like a raspberry or pine cone, which added a tactile and ornamental charm. However, by the 1920s, this design was replaced by a gilded, ribbed spherical stopper, lending a more streamlined and modern appearance. Vintage newspaper advertisements from the era corroborate this evolution in design, highlighting the transition to the ribbed stopper.
Raspberry stopper boule flacons:
- 1 oz bottle stands 2.25" tall
- 2 oz bottle stands 3" tall
- 3 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall.
Boule with ribbed stopper (original, not fully gilded ground glass stopper):
- 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
- 4.5" tall
- 5.25" tall
- 32 oz
Boule with ribbed stopper (fully gilded ground glass stopper):
- 0.25 oz = 2" tall
- 0.5 oz
- 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall.
- 2 oz = 3 1/8" tall
Boule with ribbed stopper (fully gilded stopper with plastic plug):
- 0.5 oz = 2.5" tall.
The branding on these bottles also evolved, providing insight into the timeline of production. Between 1925 and 1947, the flacons bore the name "Jeanne Lanvin," honoring the house's founder. From 1947 to 1958, the inscription changed to "Lanvin Parfums," reflecting the company’s growth and its increasingly global reach. After 1958, the bottles were simply marked "Lanvin" or "Lanvin Paris," aligning with the streamlined branding of the mid-20th century. Interestingly, some flacons from the late 1940s or early 1950s can still be found with the older raspberry-shaped stoppers, suggesting the use of remaining stock during transitional periods.
The Flacon Boule, whether in its early pine-cone-topped version or later ribbed design, remains a masterpiece of perfumery presentation. Its blend of Art Deco opulence and evolving design elements perfectly captures the spirit of Arpège: timeless, elegant, and ever-evolving.
Here is a quick guide to your bottle sizes if it is missing labels or boxes. Please note that this is a work in progress, more info will be added as it becomes available to me.
In 1927, a rare and exquisite limited edition of the iconic Flacon Boule was created in collaboration with the prestigious Sèvres porcelain manufactory, elevating the already luxurious presentation of Lanvin’s Arpège to an extraordinary level of artistry. Known as the "Blue Ball," this exclusive model was crafted from blue enameled Sèvres porcelain, a material renowned for its luminous quality and enduring elegance. The vibrant blue surface, a hallmark of Sèvres’ expertise, was richly decorated with intricate gold accents, emphasizing the bottle’s spherical form and adding a touch of regal sophistication.
A gilded collar at the neck of the bottle seamlessly tied the design together, while the stopper—shaped like a raspberry or pine cone—was also gilded, creating a harmonious and opulent aesthetic. The attention to detail in the craftsmanship reflected Lanvin's commitment to both quality and artistic innovation. This collaboration with Sèvres was not merely a perfume bottle but a collector’s item, embodying the refined tastes of the Art Deco era.
The base of this remarkable flacon was monogrammed and dated November 1927, marking its place as a limited edition masterpiece tied to a specific moment in Lanvin’s history. Standing 9 cm tall, this diminutive yet impactful work of art balanced elegance with practicality, ensuring it remained a functional vessel for the luxurious fragrance it contained.
Today, this rare piece, immortalized in photographs like those by Drouot, serves as a testament to the golden age of perfumery and decorative arts. The combination of Sèvres porcelain, blue enamel, and gilded decoration makes the "Blue Ball" flacon a treasure for collectors and a symbol of the unparalleled sophistication of Arpège by Lanvin.
Flacon Carre:
The Flacon Carré, introduced in 1932, offered a refined and versatile alternative to the spherical Flacon Boule, embodying elegance through its sleek and understated geometry. This bottle was crafted from clear glass, its crisp, square or rectangular shape providing a modern and minimalist contrast to the more opulent round designs. Its clean lines and transparency showcased the golden-hued perfume within, emphasizing the purity and luxury of the fragrance.
The distinguishing feature of the Flacon Carré was its stopper, which was made from black glass, Bakelite, or black plastic, reflecting the evolving materials and design trends of the time. The stoppers were either molded or intricately cut intaglio to feature the iconic Lanvin mother-and-daughter logo, a tender depiction of Jeanne Lanvin and her daughter Marie-Blanche. This emblem, a hallmark of Lanvin’s branding, symbolized timeless elegance, maternal love, and the legacy of sophistication that Jeanne sought to embody in her creations
Remarkably, the Flacon Carré enjoyed an impressive production run, remaining in use from its debut in 1932 all the way through to 1980. Its enduring popularity can be attributed to its versatile design, which adapted seamlessly to changing tastes while retaining its inherent charm. Throughout these decades, the Flacon Carré became a recognizable symbol of Lanvin’s commitment to quality and style, bridging the Art Deco period through to the modern era.
Whether paired with Arpège or other Lanvin fragrances, the Flacon Carré stands as a testament to the brand’s innovative approach to perfumery presentation. Its balance of practicality and elegance ensured its lasting appeal, making it a cherished object for both everyday use and as a collector's piece.
Product Line Additions:
1937: The Debut of Lanvin Face Powder
In 1937, Lanvin expanded its luxury offerings by introducing Lanvin face powder, blending the brand's timeless elegance with a practical yet refined cosmetic. This addition complemented the iconic fragrances, allowing wearers to embody sophistication in both scent and appearance.
1938: Eau de Lanvin and Eau de Cologne in Octagonal Elegance
By 1938, Lanvin launched Eau de Lanvin and Eau de Cologne, housed in stunning octagonal, ribbed crystal bottles. These geometric designs added a modern, architectural edge to the presentation, showcasing the interplay between form and function. The ribbed texture of the crystal enhanced light refraction, emphasizing the precious liquids within, while the octagonal shape conveyed a sense of stability and luxury.
1949: The Lanvinette – Portable Glamour
In 1949, Lanvin introduced the Lanvinette, a cylindrical gold-tone purse flacon designed by legendary French jewelers, Cartier. This petite masterpiece held 1/8 oz of perfume and embodied portability and elegance, allowing women to carry a touch of luxury wherever they went. Often offered as a gift with purchase, the Lanvinette became a coveted collector’s piece due to the association with Cartier and a symbol of refinement.
Clarifying the Eau de Lanvin
Many may not realize that Eau de Lanvin was an eau de toilette, while the true perfume was labeled extrait. This distinction underscored the brand’s nuanced understanding of luxury fragrance categories, providing options for those seeking either light or concentrated expressions of Arpège.
1950: The Traveler Flacon – Big Sister to the Lanvinette
In 1950, Lanvin launched the Traveler flacon, a larger, cylindrical gold metal bottle that held 1 1/3 ounces of Eau de Lanvin. As the "big sister" to the Lanvinette, it offered the same sleek, portable appeal but catered to those desiring a more substantial fragrance option. This bottle remained in production until 1976, a testament to its enduring popularity.
1953: Black and Gold Purse Flacons
Lanvin elevated on-the-go fragrance further in 1953 with the introduction of glossy black and gold purse flacons, which exuded opulence and modernity. These compact designs resonated with women seeking both practicality and sophistication in their fragrance accessories.
1957: Arpège in the Cadillac Brougham
A unique milestone came in 1957 when Lanvin partnered with Cadillac to include a one-ounce Arpège atomizer bottle as standard equipment in the Cadillac Brougham. The custom-designed atomizer by STEP was an engineering marvel, operational only when inverted and entirely spill-proof. This luxurious addition underscored Lanvin’s prestige and its ability to transcend traditional markets.
1962-1963: Innovations in Spray Technology
Lanvin pioneered fragrance technology with the Arpège Perfume Mist (200 metered aerosol sprays, refillable) and the Arpège Spray Mist (1,000 metered aerosol sprays, refillable) in 1962. The following year, the Arpège Natural Spray (non-aerosol) was introduced in both parfum and Eau de Lanvin formulations. Packaged in crystal-clear flacons, these sprays promised both longevity and reliability, a cutting-edge innovation in fragrance delivery.
1965: A Veil of Arpège
Lanvin expanded its fragrance offerings with A Veil of Arpège in 1965, a fluffy emollient skin lotion that combined luxury with skincare. Packaged in the classic boule and square-cut flacons, this moisturizing product remained popular through 1987, showcasing its timeless appeal.
1971: Eau Arpège and Bath Preparations
In 1971, Lanvin introduced Eau Arpège (or Eau de Arpège), which was sold until around 1989. A full line of bath and after-bath preparations accompanied the launch, including bath salts, foaming milk bath, and perfumed bath oil, each offering varying strengths of Arpège’s signature scent. These indulgent products catered to every aspect of luxurious self-care.
1977: Expanded Bath and Body Line
In 1977, Lanvin introduced new innovations, including Foaming Fragranced Bath Concentrate and Fragranced Body Moisturizer, further enriching the bathing experience. Additionally, the Arpège Bath and Fragrance Oil, a metered aerosol spray designed for body application, demonstrated Lanvin’s commitment to versatility and innovation in fragrance delivery.
Lanvin’s continuous evolution in product offerings over the decades reflects the brand’s ability to stay ahead of trends while maintaining its reputation for timeless luxury and innovation.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1979, the Lanvin family regained control of their brand from its previous owners, Squibb. This pivotal moment marked the beginning of efforts to revive Lanvin's struggling catalog of fragrances. With its storied heritage and reputation for elegance, the brand sought to breathe new life into its offerings and reclaim its place in the competitive world of luxury perfumery.
By 1982, Lanvin reintroduced its iconic black boule flacon, a timeless design that had been produced in limited quantities prior to this year. This classic spherical bottle, associated with the elegance of Arpège, became the hallmark for all variants of the fragrance, including eau de toilette atomizers. Its reappearance was a calculated move to evoke nostalgia while re-establishing Lanvin's identity in the luxury fragrance market.
To update its image for a contemporary audience, Lanvin introduced a new bottle design in 1987 for Eau Arpège, an eau de parfum. Renowned designer Serge Mansau created a tall, amphora-shaped frosted glass bottle, blending modernity with classical elegance. The soft, translucent finish and graceful curves of the amphora symbolized sophistication and refinement, aligning perfectly with the enduring legacy of Arpège while appealing to a modern generation of fragrance enthusiasts.
These developments in the 1980s showcased Lanvin's commitment to honoring its past while embracing innovation, ensuring that its fragrances remained relevant and desirable in an evolving market.
In 1987, Arpège Eau de Parfum, marketed as L'Eau de Parfum Arpège, was reintroduced in the iconic black boule flacon, a design that had become synonymous with the fragrance's timeless elegance. Lanvin sought to elevate the new formulation, aiming to make "an art statement" that would resonate with contemporary sensibilities while honoring the brand’s rich heritage. To achieve this, the house turned to renowned designer Serge Mansau, who reinterpreted the classic spherical bottle with a modern twist. Mansau, deeply attuned to Lanvin’s tradition, seamlessly merged the past and present by designing a sleek vaporizer that respected the brand's legacy while infusing it with a fresh, modern aesthetic. The result was a beautifully refined flacon that captured the essence of Arpège—a fragrance that had already become a symbol of luxury and sophistication—while signaling a bold new chapter for Lanvin's iconic scent.
In 1989, Arpège was no longer the powerhouse fragrance it once was, prompting the new chairman of Lanvin, Leon Bressler, to take bold steps to restore the scent to its former glory. Recognizing the untapped potential of the fragrance, Bressler famously remarked, “Arpège should be a much greater success than it is,” describing the fragrance as "underexploited." In his eyes, Arpège had become a neglected treasure, and he was determined to change that. However, Lanvin was facing serious operational challenges, and unable to guarantee the consistently high quality of their perfumes, the company made the difficult decision to close its perfume factory in Nanterre, France, as well as its international subsidiaries. As a result, Lanvin discontinued the production of all fragrances except Arpège, which was eventually manufactured elsewhere, ensuring its continued presence in the market.
To reignite interest in Arpège and the broader Lanvin brand, Bressler launched a five-million-franc advertising campaign designed to place Arpège back in the public eye. The two-month campaign, appearing in general interest and women’s magazines, aimed not just to sell the fragrance, but to promote the broader reinvention of Lanvin as a brand, signaling a return to prominence. But the advertising wasn’t limited to print; in November 1989, Lanvin sponsored a special event to elevate the fragrance’s image, presenting its first annual L'Art d'Etre Arpège (The Art of Being Arpège) award. The award, given at a glamorous gala dinner held at the Ritz Pool in the Hotel Ritz, recognized the artistic contributions of prominent figures, with the first recipient being ballerina Sylvie Guillem. This prestigious affair helped reinforce the association between Arpège and the world of refined elegance and culture.
In addition to the campaign and the award ceremony, Lanvin collaborated with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris to release a limited edition series of Arpège for Christmas in 1989. The limited edition consisted of 1,000 flacons of Eau de Toilette, packaged in the iconic boule flacon, with 30 numbered bottles engraved in gold. These numbered bottles, sold exclusively at the museum's boutique for 700 francs, added an air of exclusivity and luxury. The remaining unnumbered bottles were sold in select perfumeries and Lanvin boutiques for 550 francs each. This limited edition not only marked a pivotal moment for Arpège, but it also emphasized the luxury and heritage of the Lanvin brand. While it's unclear if the fragrance itself was reformulated at this time, the campaign and the limited edition bottles helped revitalize Arpège and brought it back into the spotlight during a challenging period for the company.
1992 Reformulation:
In 1992, Relance d'Arpège was introduced as a reformulated version of the iconic Arpège fragrance. Developed by Hubert Fraysse, the new formulation sought to capture the essence of the original while updating it for modern tastes. The fragrance was a harmonious blend of orange blossom, honeysuckle, rose, and jasmine, with the rich and sensual notes of ylang ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli adding depth and warmth. This reformulation retained the floral heart of the original, yet brought a smoother, more contemporary feel, making it more approachable for the newer generations of fragrance lovers.
The Relance d'Arpège was packaged in a flacon that paid homage to the Art Deco roots of the original Arpège bottle, maintaining its spherical shape but with a modernized design that reflected the ongoing evolution of the brand. Along with the fragrance, the Arpège Fragrance and Bath Collection was launched, offering a comprehensive array of 11 products, including a 1.7 oz Eau de Parfum and 1/2 oz Parfum, ensuring that fans of the scent could indulge in a full sensory experience, from shower gel to body lotion.
Initially, the reformulated Relance d'Arpège was exclusively available in France and Belgium, where it was greeted with anticipation as a revitalization of a beloved classic. By 1995, the fragrance made its debut in the United States, where it was sold in select specialty stores and high-end department stores like Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, and Bloomingdale's. The release of Relance d'Arpège marked a pivotal moment for Lanvin, successfully reintroducing the brand’s signature fragrance to a new global audience, while maintaining the timeless elegance and sophistication that had made Arpège a staple of luxury for decades.
Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, blue hyacinth, neroli, coriander, honeysuckle, clove and peach
- Middle notes: orange blossom, Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, camellia and lily of the valley
- Base notes: ambergris, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, patchouli and vetiver
Scent Profile:
As the fragrance of Relance d'Arpège unfolds, it greets you with an airy, sparkling aldehydic burst. The aldehydes shimmer in the air, evoking the crisp, fresh scent of clean linens drying in a sunlit breeze. Their bright, almost soapy warmth is enhanced by the zesty, effervescent citrus tang of bergamot, which brings to mind the first sip of a chilled, citrus-infused cocktail on a warm summer's day.
Nestled beneath this effervescence is the delicate blue hyacinth, its green, dewy petals mingling with a whisper of floral sweetness that feels like an early morning walk through a spring garden in full bloom. The neroli adds a soft, slightly bitter floral edge, reminiscent of the bitter orange trees lining cobblestone streets in Mediterranean cities, while the honeysuckle weaves in its sweet, heady nectar, capturing the feeling of evening air filled with the intoxicating scent of wild flowers.
A faint spiciness stirs as coriander and clove lend their aromatic, almost peppery warmth, grounding the fragrance in a cozy, inviting embrace. And then, there's the unexpected but deliciously fruity touch of peach – ripe, juicy, and just sweet enough, its velvety skin caressing the senses with a sense of opulent indulgence.
As the fragrance settles, the heart of Relance d'Arpège blooms into a soft and radiant floral symphony. The luminous orange blossom enters like a burst of sunlight, its clean, bright scent almost sparkling with freshness, evoking images of white blossoms fluttering in the spring breeze. The Grasse jasmine follows, more sensual and heady, wrapping the air with its rich, warm floralcy, while the Bulgarian rose adds a sophisticated, dewy quality – a classic, romantic heart with layers of complexity that echo the deep, velvet petals of an evening rose in full bloom.
The creamy sweetness of ylang-ylang envelops the bouquet, its exotic, sweet-woody note evoking tropical warmth and indulgence. Camellia offers a smooth, soft floral presence, like the scent of a fresh white flower delicately crushed between the fingertips, while lily of the valley floats above it all, fresh and tender, with a soft, green-floral sweetness that recalls the purity of a garden after the rain.
Finally, the base of the fragrance draws you into its comforting embrace, where deeper, earthy notes create a rich foundation. The scent of ambergris unfurls like a warm, slightly animalic undercurrent, its sea-salt warmth blending seamlessly with the smoky sweetness of benzoin, which brings a balsamic, resinous richness to the composition, akin to the scent of amber resin slowly burning over a low flame.
Musk adds a soft, almost powdery warmth, like a delicate cashmere sweater enveloping the wearer in a quiet, sensual hug. The grounding power of sandalwood infuses the base with its creamy, smooth woodiness, reminiscent of ancient temples and sacred spaces, its calming, meditative quality adding depth to the fragrance. Patchouli brings a rich, earthy complexity, with its herbaceous, slightly spicy edge grounding the composition in a way that is both warm and reassuring.
Finally, vetiver adds a green, smoky undertone, the scent of damp earth and roots just beneath the surface, as if the fragrance is anchored deep within the natural world. Together, these base notes bring a perfect balance of warmth, sensuality, and depth, creating a fragrance that feels as timeless and comforting as it is elegant and sophisticated.
1993 Eau Arpege Relaunch:
In 1993, Eau Arpège was relaunched, marking a revitalization of the beloved classic. This new incarnation of the fragrance was designed to capture the same timeless elegance of its predecessor, but with a fresh, modern twist. The fragrance retained its graceful floral composition, but with a lighter, more transparent feel that made it more wearable for a new generation.
It opened with the familiar, airy notes of aldehydes, gently sparkled with the crispness of bergamot and the sweet green vibrancy of blue hyacinth, while the honeysuckle and delicate neroli added a floral sweetness that felt both romantic and refined. As the fragrance evolved, it embraced the classic heart of jasmine and rose, bolstered by the creamy, tropical warmth of ylang-ylang and the soft whisper of lily of the valley, all carried on a soft cloud of sandalwood and ambergris in the base.
The relaunch of Eau Arpège sought to preserve the sophisticated charm that had made it a staple of luxury while offering a lighter, airier take that could be worn with ease in both day and night settings. This updated version also embraced the brand’s enduring connection to beauty, art, and elegance, reaffirming Arpège as an iconic fragrance in the Lanvin legacy.
1994 Arpege Relaunch:
In 1994, Arpège was reimagined with a reformulation that brought a fresh energy to the iconic fragrance, while still retaining the essence of the original. The top notes burst forth with a crisp, lively freshness, anchored by the invigorating bergamot, its citrus zest creating an uplifting first impression. The delicate neroli, with its honeyed, slightly floral sweetness, adds a bright, sunny quality, giving the fragrance an immediate sense of joy and lightness. This opening is vibrant and jubilant, setting the tone for what is to come.
As the fragrance settles, the middle notes unfold with an elegant and tender femininity. A rich bouquet of roses unfurls its velvety petals, blending seamlessly with the intoxicating allure of jasmine—its creamy, floral richness softening into the composition. The addition of ylang-ylang brings a tropical sweetness, adding depth and a hint of exotic warmth to the heart. Subtle aldehydes dance through these florals, lending an airy, almost metallic sparkle that lifts the flowers, making them feel radiant and modern. The heart of this perfume is soft yet complex, a perfect balance of classic femininity and contemporary elegance.
The base notes ground the fragrance with a comforting warmth and depth. Sandalwood contributes its creamy, slightly woody richness, while patchouli imparts an earthy, balsamic quality that gives the composition a sophisticated edge. The vetiver, with its smoky, slightly grassy undertones, adds a sense of dry, elegant earthiness, completing the fragrance’s base with a refined finish. As the perfume lingers, a whisper of vanilla emerges, offering a soft, sweet, and warm touch that rounds out the fragrance and adds an enduring, comforting finish. The result is a fragrance that feels both timeless and modern, a perfect reflection of Arpège’s enduring legacy in the world of fine perfumery.
2005 & 2006 Relaunches of the Arpege Extrait:
In 2005, a luxurious version of Arpège Extrait was released, offering a richer, more concentrated interpretation of the beloved fragrance. As an extrait, this version of Arpège is deep, intense, and opulent, showcasing the essence of the original perfume with a heightened sensuality. The extrait formulation allows the natural richness of the flowers and base notes to shine through more prominently. The fragrance envelops the wearer in a sophisticated aura, with the intense presence of aldehydes and florals, balanced by a more robust base of ambergris, sandalwood, and patchouli. The extrait's more potent, lingering sillage provides an experience that is intimate yet unforgettable, a statement of elegance and timeless beauty.
Then, in 2006, a reworked version of the original 1927 Arpège fragrance was introduced, marked by a noticeable shift in character. This reformulation was designed to appeal to contemporary sensibilities, blending the classic Arpège notes with a modern twist. What emerged was a fragrance that still held the heart of Arpège, but with a noticeable sweetness and softness, transforming it into a radiant, floral scent that was lighter and airier than its predecessors. The composition is still based on a beautiful floral bouquet, but with an emphasis on sweetness. This new version includes over 60 rare and precious flowers, each carefully selected for their delicate yet intoxicating fragrance.
The perfume blooms with an abundance of flowers—lilies, roses, jasmine, and violets—that are rich yet not overpowering. The sweetness of these florals, however, is balanced with the freshness of aldehydes and the gentle warmth of the base notes, creating a fragrance that feels both lush and refined. Presented in a sleek 100 ml black ‘Arpège’ bottle, this reworked version retains the iconic shape, but the polished, modern design offers a fresh take on the original. The fragrance, still deeply rooted in the heritage of Arpège, becomes a new chapter in the perfume’s story, one that remains true to its floral sophistication while appealing to a broader, more modern audience.
Limited Edition Bottles:
From 1993, the Arpège Parfum de Collection limited edition, had only 1560 copies, the black glass bottle is entirely decorated with gold, except for the base. H: 6.5 cm.
Launched in 1996, Nuée d'Or (Golden Cloud), limited edition of only 2500 copies, black glass with powdery gilding, created by Van Lith.
Introduced in 1997, the Sortilege (Spell or Hex) presentation bottle, its neck adorned with a jewel made by the designer Hervé Van Der Straeten, limited edition of just 2000 copies and was sold exclusively at Harrod's in London for 190 pounds.
After 1998, more limited editions followed. The juice remains the same, only the bottle is different for all of these limited edition collector bottles.
In 1999, Arpege was sold in a limited edition "Grand Deluxe Edition" published in 499 copies, created and designed by Serge Mansau: Presented in a modernist cardboard box wrapped in glossy black paper and yellow embossed siglé and titled, bottle sculpture colorless crystal solid rectangular cubic etched sandblasted on one side of the symbol of the house decor, gold banded collar, pearl gold lacquered cap, set in a frame of black plexiglass and brass. Stands 15.5 cm tall.
Also in 1999, Reflets D'Or (Golden Reflection), limited edition of just 3500 copies, designed by Van Lith, in clear glass covered in gilding. The bottle holds 1/2 oz of Parfum.
Limited edition eau de parfum, 50ml, age unknown, 1990s era. Bottle is just under 3.25 inches tall.
120th Anniversary Edition:
In October 2009, to mark Lanvin’s 120th anniversary, a special limited edition of Arpège was launched, offering a refined and exclusive version of the fragrance. This edition, named Arpège 120, was released in both 50 ml and 100 ml Eau de Parfum formats, celebrating not just the legacy of the fragrance but also the House of Lanvin itself. The bottle, encased in a luxurious outer box adorned with sketches by designer Alber Elbaz, added a unique artistic touch to the release. These sketches, created by Elbaz, infused the packaging with a sense of modern creativity while honoring Lanvin's rich history of design and fashion.
The fragrance inside, while built on the same foundation as the 1993 reformulation, was subtly tweaked to comply with IFRA restrictions on certain ingredients. However, the essence of Arpège remained intact. The top notes immediately greet the senses with a sparkling burst of aldehydes, which provide a crisp, effervescent start. This is quickly followed by the delicate sweetness of peach and the fresh, floral brightness of bergamot. The addition of orange blossom and honeysuckle deepens the floral complexity, offering a soft, enveloping warmth. These notes combine to form a harmonious opening, fresh yet comforting, like a soft breeze on a spring day.
The middle notes of Arpège 120 bloom with a truly feminine and sophisticated bouquet. Jasmine and iris form the heart of the fragrance, their creamy, powdery sweetness intertwining beautifully with the rich, heady floral notes of rose and ylang-ylang. The scent becomes increasingly complex with the presence of coriander, which adds a subtle spice, and mimosa, offering a powdery softness. Tuberose and geranium further enhance the bouquet, bringing layers of floral sweetness and green freshness, making this heart a truly lush, layered experience.
The base notes of the fragrance are warm, grounding, and sensual. Sandalwood imparts a creamy, slightly woody depth that contrasts beautifully with the freshness of the florals. Vetiver and patchouli add an earthy richness, providing the fragrance with complexity and structure. Finally, the soft, comforting presence of vanilla and musk add an enveloping warmth, creating a lingering, sophisticated trail that gently fades but remains memorable.
Altogether, Arpège 120 is a celebration of the original's elegance, refined to meet modern standards while still echoing the classic notes that have made the fragrance a timeless icon. With its delicate balance of fresh florals and deeper, warmer notes, it evokes a sense of grace and beauty, perfectly encapsulating the spirit of Lanvin’s long history of refinement and style.
- Top notes: aldehydes, peach, bergamot, orange blossom, honeysuckle
- Middle notes: jasmine, iris, rose, ylang ylang, coriander, mimosa, tuberose, geranium
- Base notes: sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, musk
Hi Grace, do you perchance know which Lanvin scents were in the 4oz octagon ribbed clear cylinder bottles, with the black glass flat octagon cap? Thank you!!
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