La Dogaresse by Lanvin c1923

La Dogaresse by Lanvin, launched in 1923, emerged during a vibrant and transitional period in perfumery. The early 1920s were marked by a fascination with both innovation and classicism in fragrance, reflecting the broader cultural shifts of the Roaring Twenties. During this time, perfumes were increasingly complex, with many houses exploring new scent combinations and materials. La Dogaresse, with its rich, evocative character, fit well within this context, blending the allure of historical romance with contemporary sophistication.

The name "La Dogaresse" was chosen by Parfums Lanvin to evoke the grandeur and opulence associated with Venice's historical aristocracy. The term "dogaresse" refers to the wife or female counterpart of a "doge," the chief magistrate and leader of the Venetian Republic. In French, "La Dogaresse" translates directly to "The Dogaresse." This name suggests a connection to the regal and historic ambiance of Venice, embodying the elegance and prestige of its palazzos.

La Dogaresse’s association with Venice is deeply intertwined with its historical and cultural significance. Venice, with its palatial architecture and storied past, provides a luxurious backdrop that aligns well with the sophisticated nature of the fragrance. The name evokes images of grand, opulent interiors and the timeless elegance of Venetian nobility.

For women of the time, La Dogaresse would likely have been seen as a symbol of sophistication and grace, capturing the romantic and exotic allure of Venice. The fragrance would have appealed to those who sought to embody the glamour and refinement associated with the city's aristocratic heritage. The name "La Dogaresse" thus evokes emotions of luxury and nostalgia, with the perfume itself potentially conjuring the sophisticated scent profiles of an elaborate Venetian ballroom.

In the context of perfume, "La Dogaresse" implies a fragrance with depth and complexity, reflecting the high status and refined taste of its namesake. The perfume would have been interpreted as both a tribute to historical elegance and a modern expression of luxury, catering to a clientele that appreciated the intersection of history, culture, and sophistication.

Fragrance Composition:

La Dogaresse by Lanvin, launched in 1923, is noted for its evocative name and historical inspiration, but the specific scent profile remains elusive without a sample. The perfume was classified as a woody floral fragrance, which suggests a composition that blends the elegance of floral notes with the depth and warmth of woody elements.

Given the era and the perfume's inspiration, one might infer that La Dogaresse could have featured rich, classic ingredients typical of early 20th-century perfumes. The floral notes in such a fragrance would likely include a blend of sophisticated and timeless flowers such as jasmine, rose, or iris, chosen for their luxurious and evocative qualities. The woody aspect of the fragrance would probably be anchored by Mysore sandalwood, a favored ingredient in early 20th-century perfumery for its creamy, rich, and warm characteristics.

Without specific notes or a sample, it is challenging to detail the exact aroma of La Dogaresse. However, one could reasonably imagine it as a scent that combines the lush, opulent qualities of florals with the deep, enveloping warmth of sandalwood, creating a fragrance that reflects the grandeur and elegance of its Venetian-inspired name. This combination would aim to evoke a sense of classic sophistication and timeless beauty, resonating with the luxurious and historical connotations of Venice.

Bottles:

La Dogaresse by Lanvin was housed in an elegant Sevres porcelain boule flacon, a testament to the opulence and craftsmanship associated with the brand. These flacons, crafted to order, were not only vessels for the perfume but also works of art in their own right. The Sevres porcelain boule flacons, renowned for their exquisite quality and intricate designs, were emblematic of Lanvin's commitment to luxury and refinement. Each flacon contained extracts from Lanvin's leading fragrances, including Lajea, La Dogaresse, My Sin, Le Chypre, Comme Ci Comme Ca, J'En Raffole, and eventually the iconic Arpege.

Initially, the perfume was presented in a Baccarat clear crystal flacon, known for its clarity and brilliance, which showcased the perfume's color and form. This crystal presentation highlighted the fragrance's luxurious nature and the artistry of its packaging. However, the Sevres porcelain boule flacons, particularly the gilded versions, became the most notable and sought-after packaging for Lanvin perfumes. The gilded boule flacons added an extra layer of sophistication and grandeur, with their ornate designs reflecting the elegance and exclusivity of the perfumes they held.

The transition from Baccarat crystal to Sevres porcelain marked a shift in Lanvin's presentation strategy, emphasizing a more elaborate and decorative approach. The Sevres porcelain flacons, with their sumptuous finishes and artistic craftsmanship, embodied the high status of Lanvin fragrances and enhanced the overall experience of luxury and indulgence for its discerning clientele.

Baccarat flacon for La Dogaresse, photo by Museu del Perfum

A black glass perfume bottle with gilt finish over all, exposing only the Lanvin mother-daughter logo, in fine condition, with a paper label on base. This gilt bottle was available for a short time and only to Lanvin clients. Height 3 1/2 in.  

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

La Dogaresse by Lanvin was discontinued, likely by 1930, marking the end of its brief but notable presence in the perfume market. Launched in 1923, this fragrance was part of Lanvin’s early efforts to establish a distinct identity in the competitive world of haute perfumery. Its discontinuation around 1930 reflects the shifting trends and evolving tastes in the perfume industry during that period.

The 1920s were a time of significant change in fragrance trends, with a growing emphasis on more complex and modern compositions. Lanvin's decision to discontinue La Dogaresse could have been influenced by the evolving preferences of consumers who were increasingly drawn to new and innovative scent profiles. Additionally, the economic and social upheavals of the late 1920s, including the onset of the Great Depression, may have played a role in reshaping the perfume market and leading to the retirement of certain fragrances.

Despite its relatively short market life, La Dogaresse is remembered for its luxurious packaging and its association with Lanvin’s early forays into high-end perfumery. Its discontinuation was part of the natural evolution of Lanvin’s fragrance portfolio as the brand adapted to new trends and continued to refine its offerings in response to changing consumer desires.