In 1925, when Géranium D'Espagne was launched, the world of perfumery was flourishing with innovation and creativity. The Roaring Twenties, characterized by economic prosperity, cultural dynamism, and a break from traditional norms, provided fertile ground for the creation of new and daring fragrances. This era saw the emergence of perfumes that were bolder and more complex, reflecting the liberated spirit of the time. Houses like Chanel, with its groundbreaking No. 5, and Guerlain, with its opulent Shalimar, were setting trends with their sophisticated compositions.
Géranium D'Espagne entered this vibrant market with its fresh, spicy floral profile. It stood out with dominant notes of geranium and rose, offering a unique blend of floral freshness and spicy warmth. While many fragrances of the time were exploring the realms of aldehydes and exotic oriental notes, Géranium D'Espagne embraced a more botanical and naturalistic approach, celebrating the essence of its key floral ingredients.
The name Géranium D'Espagne is French, translating to "Geranium of Spain" in English. This name choice reflects a sense of exoticism and romanticism associated with Spain, a country known for its vibrant culture, rich history, and beautiful landscapes. By naming the perfume after Spanish geraniums, Parfums Lanvin likely aimed to evoke the warm, sunny climate of Spain, with its picturesque gardens and aromatic plants.
The use of "D'Espagne" (of Spain) imbues the fragrance with a sense of place and origin, suggesting a connection to the natural beauty and traditional floral scents of Spain. This choice would appeal to women seeking a touch of the exotic and the allure of far-off places, resonating with the wanderlust and adventurous spirit of the 1920s.
Women of the 1920s, enjoying newfound freedoms and opportunities, would likely have responded to Géranium D'Espagne with enthusiasm. The perfume's fresh and spicy floral profile would have been perceived as both invigorating and elegant, suitable for various occasions from daytime wear to evening events.
The name Géranium D'Espagne evokes images of vibrant Spanish gardens, filled with blooming geraniums and roses, their fragrances mingling in the warm air. It conjures visions of romantic Spanish villas, sun-drenched landscapes, and the lively spirit of Spanish fiestas. The scent would transport the wearer to these idyllic settings, offering a sensory escape and a touch of Mediterranean charm.
In the context of perfume, Géranium D'Espagne suggests a fragrance that captures the essence of Spanish geraniums—a blend of floral and spicy notes that is both invigorating and captivating. The name hints at a natural, botanical quality, emphasizing the use of high-quality, authentic ingredients. It also conveys a sense of refinement and elegance, aligning with Lanvin's reputation for sophistication and luxury.
The reintroduction and renaming of the perfume as Spanish Geranium in 1951 for the US market suggest a continued appreciation for its distinctive character and timeless appeal. Despite the interruption of production during WWII, the fragrance's revival indicates its enduring popularity and the lasting impression it made on the fragrance landscape.
Géranium D'Espagne, created by Madame Marie Zede and possibly tweaked by Andre Fraysse, is a testament to Lanvin's innovative spirit and dedication to crafting unique and memorable fragrances. It reflects the vibrant, dynamic nature of the 1920s perfume market while offering a distinctive scent experience that remains relevant and cherished.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It was classified as a fresh, spicy floral perfume with dominant geranium and rose notes.
- Top notes: aldehydes, geranium, lemon, bergamot
- Middle notes: cinnamon, palmarosa, carnation, rose geranium, pepper
- Base notes: tonka, oakmoss, ambergris, patchouli, benzoin, civet, Mysore sandalwood
The perfume is almost masculine in its composition and reminds me a little of Early American Old Spice, because of the geranium notes. Spanish Geranium was reportedly a favorite of Joan Crawford and I can certainly see why, it is excruciatingly intoxicating. If Lanvin were to revive a version of this, I am sure it would be loved by many as it was for decades before it was discontinued.
Scent Profile:
As I first experience Géranium D'Espagne, the initial burst of aldehydes greets my senses. This note is crisp and clean, with a slightly soapy quality. It lends a sparkling, effervescent character to the perfume, reminiscent of freshly laundered linens drying in the sun. Aldehydes add a touch of sophistication and brightness, preparing my senses for the layers of complexity that follow. The dominant geranium note swiftly follows, presenting a vibrant and slightly minty aroma. It has a rosy, green quality, reminiscent of crushed leaves and petals. This geranium note is fresh and invigorating, evoking images of a blooming garden in full sun. The scent is both floral and herbaceous, grounding the aldehydic brightness with its natural, earthy presence.
Next, the zesty and tangy scent of lemon cuts through the floral notes. It adds a citrusy sharpness that is both refreshing and uplifting. This lemon note is bright and juicy, like freshly squeezed lemon juice, and it blends seamlessly with the geranium to create a lively and energetic top accord. Complementing the lemon is the nuanced scent of bergamot. This citrus note is more complex, with a slightly sweet and floral undertone. It adds a layer of sophistication and depth, with its characteristic aroma that balances between the sharpness of lemon and the sweetness of orange. Bergamot lends a refined and elegant touch to the opening of Géranium D'Espagne.
As the top notes begin to mellow, the warmth of cinnamon emerges. This spicy note is both sweet and slightly woody, bringing a comforting and aromatic quality to the fragrance. The cinnamon adds a touch of exoticism, evoking memories of spiced treats and festive occasions. The scent of palmarosa infuses the heart of the perfume with its delicate and grassy aroma. It has a rose-like fragrance with hints of citrus and ginger, adding a fresh and slightly sweet dimension. Palmarosa complements the geranium and rose notes, enhancing the floral bouquet with its subtle complexity.
The spicy, clove-like scent of carnation adds a bold and peppery facet to the heart of the perfume. It is rich and slightly sweet, with a depth that bridges the floral and spicy elements. Carnation's presence is assertive, providing a robust and textured layer to the fragrance. This note combines the green, leafy aspects of geranium with the soft, velvety scent of rose. Rose geranium is floral yet fresh, adding a harmonious blend that ties together the other middle notes. It creates a seamless transition from the top notes and enriches the overall floral character of the perfume. The sharp, piquant scent of pepper adds an unexpected twist to the heart notes. It is spicy and slightly woody, with a dry, warm quality that enhances the cinnamon and carnation. Pepper provides a dynamic contrast, adding an element of surprise and intrigue.
As the fragrance settles, the creamy and slightly sweet aroma of tonka bean becomes prominent. It has hints of vanilla and almond, adding a warm and comforting base. Tonka bean's rich and velvety scent provides a soothing foundation for the other notes to rest upon. The earthy and slightly damp scent of oakmoss adds a green and mossy quality to the base. It is reminiscent of a forest floor, adding depth and a natural, grounding element to the fragrance. Oakmoss enhances the chypre character of Géranium D'Espagne, making it feel timeless and classic.
This rare and luxurious note adds a subtle, marine quality to the base. Ambergris is slightly sweet, musky, and warm, with a unique depth that is both animalic and earthy. It lends a touch of mystery and sensuality, enriching the overall composition. The dark, earthy scent of patchouli infuses the base with a rich, woody aroma. It is slightly sweet and balsamic, with a hint of spice. Patchouli adds depth and intensity, creating a lasting impression that is both warm and sophisticated. The sweet, resinous scent of benzoin provides a creamy and slightly vanilla-like warmth. It is comforting and balsamic, adding a smooth and enveloping layer to the base notes. Benzoin enhances the longevity of the fragrance, making it feel luxurious and enduring.
The animalic note of civet adds a bold and slightly musky quality to the base. It is rich and potent, with a depth that is both intriguing and slightly provocative. Civet adds an element of sensuality, enhancing the overall complexity of the perfume. The creamy, woody scent of Mysore sandalwood adds a final touch of elegance to the base. It is smooth, warm, and slightly sweet, with a rich, buttery quality. Sandalwood provides a lasting, grounding presence that ties all the elements together, making Géranium D'Espagne feel both exotic and refined.
Géranium D'Espagne: A Fragrance Through the Years:
In the mid-1930s, Lanvin's Géranium D'Espagne was introduced as part of a luxurious and sophisticated fragrance line. The perfume was marketed alongside other high-end products such as Renaud's "Parfums of Royalty," emphasizing its place among the elite. Géranium D'Espagne was available as an eau de cologne, which positioned it as a refreshing and versatile fragrance ideal for daily wear. The packaging, a hallmark of its time, featured individual flacons nestled in French ivory containers, perfect for a lady's purse, enhancing its appeal as a portable and elegant scent.
Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1936:"RENAUD'S "Parfums of Royalty" trio comes in individual flacons in French ivory containers for the purse,- three odors. Renaud also presents a new size flacon packaged in a jewel case holding 1 '4 drams. LANVIN'S Geranium d'Espagne eau de cologne."
By 1938, Géranium D'Espagne had established itself as a beloved fragrance. Vogue highlighted Lanvin's innovative approach with "Heavenly Twins" – the introduction of a new eau de cologne and the cherished Géranium D'Espagne. The pairing of these scents in an atomizer format catered to modern women who desired convenience without sacrificing luxury. The "Heavenly Twins" were celebrated for their refreshing and exhilarating qualities, making them ideal companions for the dynamic lifestyles of Vogue's readership.
Vogue, 1938:
"Lanvin's Heavenly Twins — the new Eau de Cologne and the lovely "Geranium d'Espagne." A new atomizer for any of the Lanvin favourites."Stage, 1939:
"Lanvin's Heavenly Twins, including the famous Geranium d'Espagne — and nothing is more springy — and the Lanvin Eau de Cologne — a fresh, exhilarating scent."
In 1939, the appeal of Géranium D'Espagne continued to shine. Stage magazine lauded the fragrance's vibrant and spring-like qualities. Géranium D'Espagne, with its fresh and invigorating scent, was synonymous with the rejuvenation and vitality of spring. This description underscored its suitability for the season, capturing the essence of blooming flowers and new beginnings, making it a perfect choice for women who wanted to embody the spirit of renewal.
Motion Picture, 1951:
"By popular demand, Lanvin re-produces Spanish Geranium, fragrant and fruity, fitting in so well with the timely Spanish trend."
The post-war period saw a resurgence of Géranium D'Espagne's popularity, as highlighted by Motion Picture in 1951. The fragrance, now rebranded as Spanish Geranium, tapped into the era's fascination with Spanish culture. Its fruity and fragrant profile resonated with the contemporary "Spanish trend," which celebrated the romanticism and allure of Spain. This iteration of the perfume was embraced by those seeking to capture the exotic and passionate essence of Spanish gardens and landscapes.
Express and News from San Antonio, Texas, 1960:
"NEW FOR CHRISTMAS: LANVIN'S SPANISH GERANIUM Let your lady be among Ihe first to wear Lanvin's entrancing new scent of geraniums with a Spanish lilt, romantic as castle gardens, warm and alluring as a love song! Beautifully in keeping with the holiday mood, Spanish Geranium is also a wonderful accompaniment to warm-climate resorting . . . so wherever she goes, the lady will bask in an aura of exquisite fragrance. Eau de Lanvin, 3.00 to 8.50. Spray Mist, 5.00. Bath Powder, 5.00. Bath Oil, 3.75. All plus tax. Soap, box of 3, 3.50."By 1960, Spanish Geranium had become a festive favorite, particularly around the holiday season. Advertised as a perfect gift, it was described as "entrancing" and "romantic as castle gardens." The product line had expanded to include Eau de Lanvin, spray mist, bath powder, bath oil, and soap. Each product offered a unique way to experience the fragrance, whether through a light spritz or a luxurious bath. The imagery of castle gardens and love songs emphasized its romantic and alluring nature, making it a cherished scent for women who desired a touch of elegance and warmth.
A 1963 advertisement reads:
"Spanish Geranium by Lanvin. The lure and mystery of Spain are brought to life brought to you with Spanish Geranium's exotic scent"
The 1963 advertisement for Spanish Geranium emphasized its exotic allure and the mystery of Spain. The perfume was marketed as a way to bring the enchantment of Spain to life, appealing to women who yearned for adventure and romance. Its exotic scent was a testament to Lanvin's ability to capture and bottle the essence of a place, offering a sensory journey to the captivating landscapes and vibrant culture of Spain.
House and Garden, 1969:
"It's a trick of Lanvin's light Spanish Geranium Cologne that when you smell it you can instantly see those pale mossy leaves — a very green summer fragrance."
By 1969, Géranium D'Espagne had become a staple in the Lanvin fragrance collection. House and Garden praised its light and green summer fragrance, evoking imagery of pale mossy leaves. This description highlighted the scent's fresh and natural qualities, making it a perfect choice for the warm and leisurely days of summer. The fragrance's ability to conjure vivid images of nature and the outdoors was a testament to its enduring appeal and Lanvin's expertise in crafting evocative perfumes.
Géranium D'Espagne, later known as Spanish Geranium, was a versatile and beloved fragrance that evolved with the times while maintaining its core identity. From its introduction in the 1930s to its continued popularity through the mid-20th century, the perfume's fresh, spicy floral notes and evocative imagery captivated women across generations. Whether as an eau de cologne, bath oil, or part of a holiday gift set, Géranium D'Espagne offered a timeless and luxurious experience, embodying the elegance and sophistication that Lanvin was renowned for.
Product Line:
The fragrance Géranium D'Espagne by Lanvin was not just a standalone perfume; it was a part of an extensive product line designed to offer a comprehensive and luxurious fragrance experience. This extensive product line was reflective of the era's inclination towards creating a complete sensory journey, allowing women to immerse themselves in the scent through various forms.
Parfum Extrait: The parfum extrait, or perfume extract, represented the most concentrated and purest form of Géranium D'Espagne. This highly potent version was designed for those who desired a long-lasting and intense fragrance experience. The extrait was likely housed in elegant, ornate bottles, emphasizing the luxury and sophistication of the scent. Women would use the parfum extrait sparingly, applying it to pulse points for a deep, enduring fragrance that would last throughout the day and into the night.
Dusting Powder: The dusting powder offered a more subtle and delicate way to enjoy Géranium D'Espagne. This finely milled powder would be applied to the skin after bathing, leaving a soft, fragrant layer that would linger subtly. The dusting powder added an element of elegance to the daily routine, providing a light and airy scent that complemented the more intense forms of the fragrance.
Bath Oil: The bath oil allowed for an indulgent and luxurious bathing experience. By adding the oil to bathwater, women could envelop themselves in the soothing and aromatic essence of Géranium D'Espagne. The oil would leave the skin feeling soft and moisturized, while the fragrance would infuse the steam, creating a spa-like atmosphere at home.
Eau de Lanvin (Toilet Water): Eau de Lanvin, a lighter and less concentrated version of the fragrance, was perfect for daily wear. This toilet water provided a refreshing and invigorating take on Géranium D'Espagne, suitable for generous application throughout the day. It was designed for women who desired a more understated and versatile fragrance option that could be worn in various settings.
Eau de Parfum Mist: The eau de parfum mist offered a convenient and modern way to enjoy the fragrance. This spray format allowed for easy and even application, making it ideal for women on the go. The mist provided a balance between the intensity of the parfum extrait and the lightness of the eau de Lanvin, offering a versatile option for different occasions.
Talcum Powder: Talcum powder was another luxurious addition to the product line, providing a light and fragrant way to keep the skin feeling fresh and smooth. This product was particularly popular during the warmer months, as it helped to absorb moisture and leave a delicate, lingering scent of Géranium D'Espagne on the skin.
Hard Milled Soap Bars: In 1957, Lanvin introduced hard milled soap bars in the Géranium D'Espagne fragrance. These pink, luxurious soap bars were finely crafted to provide a rich and creamy lather while imparting the signature scent. The hard milling process ensured that the soap was long-lasting and retained its fragrance throughout its use. These soap bars added an element of elegance to the daily cleansing routine, making every bath or shower a fragrant and indulgent experience.
Conclusion: The extensive product line of Géranium D'Espagne exemplified Lanvin's commitment to providing a full spectrum of luxurious and immersive fragrance experiences. From the intense and enduring parfum extrait to the light and refreshing eau de Lanvin, each product was designed to enhance the beauty and elegance of the wearer. The availability of dusting powder, bath oil, eau de parfum mist, talcum powder, and hard milled soap bars allowed women to enjoy the fragrance in multiple forms, making Géranium D'Espagne a versatile and cherished part of their daily routines. This comprehensive approach to fragrance ensured that Géranium D'Espagne was not just a perfume but a lifestyle, embodying the sophistication and grace of the Lanvin brand.
Bottles:
Fate of the Fragrance:
Lanvin's journey with "Spanish Geranium" reflects a dynamic history of fragrance innovation and market shifts. The name "Spanish Geranium" first emerged into the spotlight when Lanvin filed for a trademark in 1956, signifying a strategic move to capture and protect the identity of this distinctive fragrance. The trademark filing was an indication of Lanvin's intent to reintroduce the perfume with renewed emphasis and market presence.
The perfume experienced a notable revival in 1962, a period marked by a growing interest in classic and vintage scents. This reintroduction aimed to recapture the allure and appeal of Spanish Geranium, aligning with the era's fascination with retro fragrances and nostalgia for earlier olfactory trends. The revived perfume was characterized by its fresh, spicy floral profile, with dominant notes of geranium and rose, aligning with the evolving tastes of the 1960s.
However, despite its revival and initial success, Spanish Geranium's market presence proved to be short-lived. By 1970, the perfume was discontinued, reflecting the constantly shifting landscape of the fragrance industry and changing consumer preferences. This decision marked the end of an era for Spanish Geranium, as Lanvin pivoted towards newer and more contemporary offerings.
The trademark for Spanish Geranium remained active for a period but eventually became dormant by 1988. This signifies the end of Lanvin's formal association with the name and the perfume's place in their product line. The discontinuation of Spanish Geranium highlights the challenges faced by classic fragrances in maintaining relevance amidst evolving market trends and the ever-changing preferences of fragrance consumers.
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