Pretexte by Lanvin was launched in 1937, a time when the perfume industry was experiencing significant innovation and change. The 1930s were marked by economic recovery following the Great Depression, leading to a resurgence in luxury goods, including fragrances. Perfume houses were experimenting with more complex and sophisticated compositions, often combining floral and chypre notes to create multifaceted scents.
Pretexte was unique in its classification as an ambery floral chypre fragrance for women, blending the timeless bouquet of jasmine and roses with a chypre base that included fresh greens and warm, precious woody notes. This composition offered a harmonious balance between the floral and earthy elements, appealing to women seeking both elegance and a touch of opulence in their perfumes.
Parfums Lanvin chose the name "Pretexte" for its evocative and intriguing nature. "Pretexte" is a French word meaning "pretext" or "excuse." This name suggests a fragrance that provides an excuse or a reason for indulgence, inviting women to embrace moments of luxury and sophistication.
Women in the 1930s would likely have responded to Pretexte with enthusiasm, drawn to its rich and layered scent profile. The name "Pretexte" evokes images of secret rendezvous, sophisticated gatherings, and the allure of making excuses to indulge in something beautiful and luxurious. It conjures emotions of mystery, allure, and the subtle thrill of doing something just for oneself.
In the context of perfume, the name "Pretexte" would be interpreted as a subtle invitation to indulge in a fragrance that offers a complex, multi-layered experience. It implies that wearing this perfume is an act of self-expression and personal luxury, providing an excuse to embrace one's own elegance and sophistication.
Created by André Fraysse, Pretexte embodies the essence of Lanvin's dedication to crafting luxurious and timeless fragrances. The combination of classic floral notes of jasmine and roses with the chypre base of fresh greens and warm, precious woods created a scent that was both familiar and innovative for its time.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an ambery floral chypre fragrance for women. It is a perfume with the classic bouquet of jasmine and roses against a chypre base of fresh greens and warm, precious woody notes for women.
" Prétexte, a cheerful fragrance, harmonizes its smile with yours. It smells of jasmine, amber, hawthorns, daffodils, rose d'Anatolia, slight touch of Russian leather, and the chypre nuance of precious woody essences. Varied, it adapts to all natures. Light fragrance, Prétexte will be especially loved by blondes who will preferably use it during the day."
- Top notes: aldehydes, broom, cyclamen, seringa, linden blossom, daffodil, bergamot, hyacinth and narcissus
- Heart notes: orange blossom, Asian stephanotis, hay, Anatolian rose, carnation, jasmine, hawthorn, opoponax and iris
- Base notes: Russian leather, castoreum, patchouli, rosewood, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, civet, oakmoss
Scent Profile:
Prétexte by Lanvin is an intricate ambery floral chypre fragrance that captivates the senses with its sophisticated blend of notes. Let’s delve into each note, imagining the scent as if experiencing it firsthand.
The fragrance opens with a burst of aldehydes, providing a sparkling, almost soapy freshness. This bright and effervescent note is reminiscent of freshly laundered linens or a crisp morning breeze, immediately uplifting the senses and setting a clean, invigorating tone for the perfume. Broom adds a warm, honeyed sweetness with a slightly herbal undertone. It evokes images of sunlit meadows filled with wildflowers, offering a rustic charm that complements the initial freshness brought by the aldehydes. Cyclamen contributes a delicate, airy floral sweetness with a hint of watery freshness. Its scent is light and ethereal, adding a soft, clean floral touch that enhances the overall brightness of the top notes.
Seringa, also known as mock orange, introduces a creamy, lush fragrance similar to orange blossom, with a sweet and slightly citrusy aroma. This note brings a joyful, uplifting quality to the perfume, evoking images of blooming gardens in full sunlight. Linden blossom offers a gentle, honeyed floral aroma with a hint of green freshness. It conjures the scent of a sunny day under a blooming linden tree, providing a comforting and invigorating presence in the top layer of the fragrance. Daffodil brings a rich, heady floral note with a green and slightly spicy edge. Its bold, vibrant scent adds depth and complexity, reminiscent of the bright and cheerful blooms of springtime.
Bergamot provides a zesty, citrusy freshness that cuts through the sweetness of the florals. Its tangy, slightly bitter aroma adds a refreshing and invigorating sparkle to the top notes, balancing the composition beautifully. Hyacinth adds a sweet, intoxicating floral note with green undertones. It is lush and full-bodied, evoking the scent of a garden in full bloom, and contributing a rich floral layer that is both sweet and fresh. Narcissus introduces a deep, floral note with an earthy, almost animalic quality. It is rich and hypnotic, adding a layer of complexity and depth to the fragrance, and evoking the allure of nature’s raw beauty.
As the top notes settle, orange blossom emerges with its sweet, floral, and slightly citrusy aroma. It is fresh and bright, creating a beautiful floral heart that is both uplifting and serene. Stephanotis, or Madagascar jasmine, brings an intensely sweet and exotic floral note. Its creamy, lush fragrance adds an opulent touch, creating an air of luxury and sophistication. Hay adds a warm, dry, and slightly sweet note that evokes the scent of sun-dried grasses. It is earthy and grounding, providing an interesting contrast to the rich florals. Anatolian rose offers a deep, rich, and intoxicating rose scent. It is velvety and lush, with a slightly spicy and honeyed undertone, enhancing the floral heart with its opulent aroma.
Carnation contributes a spicy, clove-like aroma with a floral sweetness. It is warm and rich, adding depth and complexity to the heart notes, and infusing the fragrance with a touch of spice. Jasmine introduces an intensely sweet, floral, and slightly indolic note. It is heady and sensual, creating a luxurious and captivating middle layer that is both romantic and exotic. Hawthorn adds a delicate, sweet, and slightly almond-like scent. It is subtle but complex, providing a gentle backdrop to the more prominent florals, and adding a nuanced sweetness. Opoponax imparts a balsamic, sweet, and slightly smoky note. It is rich and resinous, adding a mystical and exotic touch to the heart, evoking the scent of ancient, aromatic resins. Iris contributes a powdery, floral note with a hint of earthiness. It is elegant and refined, adding a touch of sophistication and grace to the floral bouquet, and enhancing the overall texture of the fragrance.
As the fragrance settles into the base notes, Russian leather emerges with its rich, smoky, and slightly animalic scent. It is warm and luxurious, evoking the imagery of vintage leather-bound books and well-worn jackets. Castoreum adds an animalic, leathery, and slightly musky note. It is deep and intense, contributing to the fragrance’s sensual and long-lasting base, and adding a touch of wild, untamed nature. Patchouli introduces a woody, earthy, and slightly sweet note. It is rich and grounding, providing a strong foundation for the other base notes, and adding depth and complexity to the scent.
Rosewood adds a warm, woody, and slightly floral note. It is smooth and polished, enhancing the woody aspects of the fragrance with its elegant and refined aroma. Ambergris brings a sweet, marine, and slightly animalic note. It is smooth and complex, adding a touch of mystery and depth, and evoking the scent of the sea and sun-warmed sand. Mysore sandalwood contributes a creamy, woody, and slightly sweet note. It is rich and opulent, creating a warm and inviting base that is both comforting and luxurious.
Tonka bean adds a sweet, creamy, and slightly nutty note. It is warm and comforting, with hints of vanilla and almond, adding a touch of sweetness and richness to the base. Vetiver introduces a smoky, earthy, and slightly green note. It is grounding and robust, adding depth and complexity, and evoking the scent of moist earth and roots. Civet adds an animalic, musky note that is both intense and sensual. It is rich and bold, contributing to the fragrance’s longevity and adding a touch of primal allure. Oakmoss provides a damp, woody, and slightly earthy note. It is rich and complex, adding depth and grounding the fragrance with its forest-like aroma, evoking the scent of a lush, green forest floor.
Prétexte by Lanvin: A Journey Through Its Essence and Legacy:
Launched in 1937, Prétexte by Lanvin made a significant impact in the perfume world. This period was marked by a return to luxury and elegance after the Great Depression, and fragrances were becoming more sophisticated and layered. Lanvin, known for its timeless and feminine scents, introduced Prétexte as a cheerful and harmonious fragrance that quickly became beloved.
Prétexte was classified as an ambery floral chypre fragrance, known for its rich and varied notes. It opened with a fresh, aldehydic top that seamlessly transitioned into a heart of floral notes, including jasmine, amber, hawthorn, daffodils, and the exotic rose d'Anatolia. The base notes featured precious woody essences, a slight touch of Russian leather, and a nuanced chypre finish. This complex composition allowed Prétexte to adapt to different occasions and personalities, making it a versatile choice for women of all natures.
A 1937 description from Marie-Claire captures the essence of Prétexte: "Prétexte, a cheerful fragrance, harmonizes its smile with yours. It smells of jasmine, amber, hawthorns, daffodils, rose d'Anatolia, slight touch of Russian leather, and the chypre nuance of precious woody essences. Varied, it adapts to all natures. Light fragrance, Prétexte will be especially loved by blondes who will preferably use it during the day."
The fragrance was also noted for its rich and unusual quality, with a modern twist that resonated with the socialites of the time. A description in Drug and Cosmetic Industry from 1937 highlights its provocative freshness: "Prétexte, a fresh provocative perfume is the first perfume to be presented by Lanvin in three years. The fragrance is rich and unusual. It has a modern quality."
The presentation of Prétexte was equally striking. The box, in white and burgundy with modern lettering, completed the package, reflecting the sophistication and elegance of the fragrance itself. This attention to detail in packaging was a hallmark of Lanvin, enhancing the overall experience of the perfume.
Prétexte was designed to evoke a variety of emotions and images. It was described as the "enveloping hymn of the wet forest" by Le Petit Parisien in 1941, capturing the fresh and invigorating scent of nature after rain. This imagery of an April smile, impregnated with the scents of roses, chypre, and jasmine, created a sense of renewal and happiness.
The New Yorker in 1947 noted Lanvin's dedication to femininity in its scents, describing Prétexte as a fragrance that had to be withdrawn shortly after its release due to the war, but which retained its allure and sophistication.
Home Journal in 1948 mentioned the joy brought by the reappearance of Prétexte, emphasizing its timeless appeal: "For those individualists who make no concessions to seasons and prefer to wear lighter versions of winter pets, Lanvin’s haunting Prétexte is again available. It is called Eau de Lanvin in the Pretexte fragrance. Its reappearance should bring joy to many.”
The name "Prétexte" translates to "pretext" or "excuse" in French. This name suggests a fragrance that provides an excuse or reason for indulgence and pleasure. It evokes images of secret rendezvous, sophisticated gatherings, and moments of self-indulgence. In relation to perfume, "Prétexte" implies a scent that offers a complex, multi-layered experience, inviting women to embrace moments of luxury and sophistication.
Prétexte was praised for its ability to adapt to all natures, making it a perfume for every woman. It was chic and intimate, as noted by Femme in 1950: "Prétexte, cheerful scent, harmonizes his smile with yours. It smells of precious woods, chypre, jasmine and roses; he sings of the wet forest. Varied, adapting to all natures, it is always your perfume. Chic and intimate, Prétexte proves you right. We cannot say it better!"
The fragrance continued to be celebrated for its unique blend of woody and floral notes. Combat in 1959 beautifully described it: "Prétexte de Lanvin... Ambergris gives it a kind of carnal fullness that makes one think of the aromatic pulp of Titian's nudes. It in no way blurs the delicate spring intoxication of broom and daffodils, finely jasmine and full-bodied by the intellectual aroma of Anatolian roses, which evokes, as if superimposed, the image of a majestic little girl measuring her height at the height of a hawthorn hedge. Smell of happiness."
Prétexte by Lanvin, with its rich and varied composition, elegant packaging, and evocative name, remains a testament to the artistry and sophistication of Lanvin perfumes. Created by André Fraysse, it captured the essence of the 1930s, offering women a fragrance that was both an olfactory delight and a means of self-expression. Despite being discontinued, it left a lasting legacy and is remembered as a timeless and beloved scent.
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Pretexte by Lanvin: Spicy, subtle. Dominant note: amber, moss, flower of the woods. Do not use it with eau de Cologne, lotion or other perfumes. For the socialite; little notebook cluttered with fittings, bridges, teas, dinners in town.""
Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 41, 1937:
Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"The box in white and burgundy, with modern lettering completes the package. "Pretexte," a fresh provocative perfume is the first perfume to be presented by Lanvin in three years. The fragrance is rich and unusual. It has a modern quality."
Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"At Lanvin, Prétexte smells of precious wood. It is the enveloping hymn of the wet forest that exhales in an April smile all impregnated with the scents of roses, chypre and jasmine.
The New Yorker, 1947:
Home Journal - Volume 102, 1948:
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
“Lanvin, always a great champion of femininity in her scents, offers Pretexte, which was first put together just before the war and almost immediately had to be withdrawn.”
Home Journal - Volume 102, 1948:
"For those individualists who make no concessions to seasons and prefer to wear lighter versions of winter pets, Lanvin’s haunting Pretexte is again available. It is called Eau de Lanvin in the Pretexte fragrance. Its reappearance should bring joy to many.”
Femme, 1950:
"When we mention a Lanvin perfume we almost always name Arpége. Without wishing to criticize this admirable composition, we believe that Prétexte is perhaps even better suited to fall and current fashion. Here's what a very qualified person thinks: Pretext, cheerful scent, harmonizes his smile with yours. It smells of precious woods, chypre, jasmine and roses; he sings of the wet forest. Varied, adapting to all natures, it is always your perfume. Chic and intimate, Prétexte proves you right. We can not say it better!"
"A pretext for a smile and cheerfulness. With its fragrant contradiction of precious wood and jasmine, chypre and wet forest: it's a pretext for youth that will prove you right."
Cue, 1953:
Playbill, 1960:
Vogue - Volume 142, 1963:
"Velvety-textured Talc de Lanvin, encased in a really handsome black and gold plastic shaker, is just out in all five Lanvin fragrances— Arpege, My Sin, Scandal, Pretexte and Rumeur."
Combat, 1954:
"Pretext of Lanvin. An extract that summer tolerates, because if it is captivating by its jasmine depth, and luxurious by its muted leather accents, it has a spiritual and flowery start where we find hyacinth, cyclamen and daffodil. It requires a generous complexion, but also a great deal of finesse, and perhaps a touch of snobbery. It is a perfume that one dreams of encountering in an Italian museum or at the Saltzburg festival, but also in a lunar garden where specious talkers would linger."
Combat, 1959:
"Walking among the sparkles and the music of a gala night, the senses fulfilled, under the blue, gray, mauve, green or golden gazes of women who inspire pleasure, it happens that the sense of smell in turn picks up a uplifting message. No perfume harmonizes better than Prétexte de Lanvin with this adventitious quest. Ambergris gives it a kind of carnal fullness that makes one think of the aromatic pulp of Titian's nudes. It in no way blurs the delicate spring intoxication of broom and daffodils, finely jasmine and full-bodied by the intellectual aroma of Anatolian roses, which evokes, as if superimposed, the image of a majestic little girl measuring her height at the height of a hawthorn hedge. Smell of happiness."
"The fragrance more men admire, more women desire — Arpege— now in a refillable spray mist. Measured to give you just enough fragrance with every spray. Now in all Lanvin fragrances, My Sin, Pretexte, Rumeur, Scandal and Spanish Geranium."
Vogue - Volume 142, 1963:
“There’s a new concept of spray scents introduced by Lanvin in its Eau de Toilette. It’s push-button pure fragrance: no propellent necessary to make scented mists. More effervescent news; a refillable bottle, $5 plus tax for 2 ½ oz of Lanvin’s Natural Spray in Eau de Toilette of Arpege, My Sin, Crescendo, Scandal, Pretexte, Rumeur and Spanish Geranium.”
Fate of the Fragrance:
Prétexte by Lanvin, a sophisticated and multifaceted fragrance, saw its discontinuation in 1969. Its journey spanned over three decades, during which it captivated many with its unique blend of floral and woody notes. This discontinuation marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had been cherished by many for its ability to evoke a sense of elegance and timelessness.
The fragrance, which was first introduced in 1937, had weathered the changing tastes and trends of the perfume industry. By the late 1960s, however, the market dynamics had shifted significantly. The 1960s saw the rise of more modern and bold scents, influenced by the social revolutions and the increasing liberation in fashion and lifestyle. The perfume industry was leaning towards fresh, clean, and sometimes unisex fragrances, reflecting the youthful and rebellious spirit of the time.
Prétexte, with its rich, ambery floral chypre composition, may have seemed more traditional in comparison to the newer, lighter fragrances that were becoming popular. Despite its enduring charm and the loyal following it had garnered, Prétexte's more complex and mature profile might not have aligned perfectly with the evolving preferences of a new generation of perfume enthusiasts.
The decision to discontinue Prétexte in 1969 was likely influenced by several factors, including the need for innovation and the introduction of new fragrances to keep up with contemporary trends. This period also saw the rise of iconic scents that defined the late 1960s and early 1970s, creating a highly competitive market environment.
The end of Prétexte's production did not diminish its legacy. The fragrance remains a beloved classic among vintage perfume collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its historical significance and the artistry behind its creation. Prétexte by Lanvin continues to be remembered as a symbol of elegance, femininity, and the golden age of perfumery.
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