Irise by Lanvin c1923

Irise by Lanvin, launched in 1923, was introduced during a transformative period in the fragrance industry. The early 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, were characterized by a sense of liberation and modernity following World War I. This era was marked by a cultural revolution that embraced new fashion trends, artistic movements like Art Deco, and a renewed sense of sophistication and glamour.

During this time, the perfume industry was experimenting with innovative compositions and ingredients, moving away from the more traditional, floral-centric fragrances of the previous century. Iconic fragrances such as Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) were leading the way with their complex, multi-faceted scent profiles. Irise, with its focus on an iris and violet accord, fit within the broader trend of exploring more nuanced and refined olfactory experiences.

The choice of the name "Irise" for Lanvin’s fragrance was particularly evocative. Derived from the French word for "iridescent," the name suggests a fragrance that embodies the shifting, luminous qualities of the iris flower. This term implies a scent that possesses subtle, changing facets, much like the iridescence of a pearl or a rainbow. It evokes an image of elegance and complexity, aligning with the era’s fascination with sophisticated and artistic design.

Women of the 1920s, a time when the emphasis was on elegance and modernity, would have been drawn to Irise for its refined and delicate composition. The iris and violet accord, combined with the fragrance’s name, would have conjured images of subtle beauty and sophistication. The scent would evoke feelings of grace and poise, appealing to women who were embracing the new freedoms and styles of the decade.

In the context of perfume, "Irise" would be interpreted as a fragrance that reflects a sophisticated and multi-dimensional experience. The iridescent quality implied by the name suggests a fragrance that reveals different aspects and nuances over time, much like the changing light on an iridescent surface. This would have made Irise a sought-after choice for women who appreciated the finer, more intricate elements of modern perfumery, adding a touch of understated elegance to their personal style.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance built upon an accord of iris and violet. I believe that Madame Zede made use of a base called Iralia® in the creation of this perfume. Iralia® is a pre-fabricated base of methyl ionones manufactured by Firmenich, it is used in perfumery to help create a woody and flowery violet-orris note.

• Top notes: iris, orange blossom, cassie, Iralia
• Middle notes: rose, ylang ylang, jasmine absolute, tuberose and natural violet essence
• Base notes: orris concrete, heliotrope, vanilla, musk, guaiac, ambergris

Scent Profile:

As you experience Irise by Lanvin, the fragrance unfolds with a sophisticated blend of floral and woody notes, beginning with the top notes.

The opening is immediately defined by iris, which provides a soft, powdery, and elegantly refined aroma. The iris note is both creamy and velvety, offering a sense of sophistication and subtlety. The orange blossom adds a touch of fresh, sweet floral scent that brightens the composition with its airy, citrusy undertones. Cassie, with its warm, honeyed, and slightly spicy scent, introduces a hint of exotic sweetness that complements the other top notes. Iralia®, a pre-fabricated base of methyl ionones from Firmenich, contributes to the fragrance's complexity by infusing it with a woody and flowery violet-orris note. This base enhances the violet's delicate and powdery qualities while providing a subtle, sophisticated depth.

As the fragrance transitions to the middle notes, the heart of Irise reveals a rich floral bouquet. Rose offers a classic, romantic aroma with its rich, deep floral scent and a hint of fruity sweetness. Ylang-ylang adds a lush, exotic floral note, known for its creamy and slightly spicy character that enhances the perfume's complexity. Jasmine absolute contributes a heady, intoxicating floral richness, creating a luxurious and opulent scent profile. Tuberose adds a bold, creamy, and slightly fruity note that intensifies the heart's floral complexity. The natural violet essence provides a delicate, green, and powdery aroma, enhancing the fragrance's overall floral sophistication and tying together the various floral elements.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm and inviting composition. Orris concrete, derived from the iris root, offers a deep, rich, and velvety aroma that adds a luxurious and powdery finish. Heliotrope contributes a sweet, almond-like scent with subtle hints of vanilla, adding a comforting and warm aspect to the base. Vanilla infuses the fragrance with a creamy, sweet warmth that rounds out the base notes and adds a touch of indulgence. Musk provides a soft, sensual undertone that enhances the fragrance's overall depth and lasting power. Guaiac wood introduces a smoky, woody note that adds an earthy, slightly resinous quality. Ambergris, with its warm, marine, and slightly sweet aroma, adds a rich, complex, and enduring character to the base.

Irise by Lanvin, with its intricate blend of iris, violet, and other floral and woody notes, offers a sophisticated and multi-dimensional olfactory experience. The fragrance captures the essence of elegance and refinement, making it a timeless choice for those who appreciate the art of perfumery.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Irise by Lanvin, a fragrance celebrated for its delicate and sophisticated blend of floral and woody notes, was discontinued in 1926, just three years after its launch in 1923. This brief but impactful presence in the perfume market reflects the dynamic nature of the fragrance industry during the early 20th century, a period characterized by rapid innovation and changing tastes.

The discontinuation of Irise was likely influenced by a combination of factors. The 1920s were a time of great experimentation and transformation in the world of perfumery. New trends and fragrances were emerging rapidly, and the market was becoming increasingly competitive. As consumer preferences shifted and new scents captured the imagination of the public, older fragrances like Irise may have struggled to maintain their position in a rapidly evolving market.

Furthermore, the early 1920s were a period of economic and social change following World War I. The perfume industry, like many others, was adjusting to the post-war landscape, and companies like Lanvin were constantly adapting to new trends and consumer demands. The decision to discontinue Irise could have been part of a broader strategy to refresh the brand's offerings and align with contemporary trends.

Despite its relatively short lifespan, Irise remains a notable early part of Lanvin's perfume history. Its sophisticated composition, featuring an accord of iris and violet, represented a refinement and elegance that was emblematic of the early 1920s. The fragrance's brief appearance on the market is a testament to the continual evolution of the perfume industry and the challenges of maintaining a place in a competitive and ever-changing landscape.

The discontinuation of Irise in 1926 marked the end of an era for this particular fragrance, but it also highlighted the dynamic and fluid nature of the perfume world. Irise's legacy endures as a symbol of the innovation and elegance that characterized the early 20th century, reflecting a time when the art of perfumery was embracing new possibilities and expressions.