J'en Raffole by Lanvin c1925

J'en Raffole by Lanvin, launched in 1925, emerged during a vibrant and transformative period in the fragrance industry. The 1920s were marked by a shift towards more complex and daring fragrances, reflecting the exuberant spirit of the Roaring Twenties. As a floral fragrance for women, J'en Raffole aligned with the era’s fascination with sophisticated, elegant, and multi-layered scents, which were becoming increasingly popular.

In this context, J'en Raffole was part of a broader trend of luxurious and richly composed perfumes that sought to capture the essence of modern femininity. This period saw a move away from simpler floral compositions towards more intricate blends that included a mix of floral, spicy, and woody notes. J'en Raffole fits well within this trend, offering a scent profile that emphasized floral opulence while reflecting the era’s penchant for high sophistication.

The name J'en Raffole is French and translates to "I Am Crazy About It" or "I Adore It" in English. This name choice conveys a sense of passion and irresistible allure, perfectly capturing the intense affection and enthusiasm that the fragrance aimed to evoke. The use of such a name would resonate strongly with women of the time, who were embracing bold new expressions of personal style and sentiment.

The name J'en Raffole suggests a fragrance that is not only loved but also somewhat addictive, reflecting a deep, emotional connection with the scent. This would appeal to women seeking a perfume that represented their own refined tastes and luxurious sensibilities. The emotional resonance of the name, combined with its floral composition, would evoke images of romance, elegance, and the joyous indulgence of a new era of self-expression and glamour.

The New Yorker, 1926:

"At Saks Fifth Avenue, in you don't already know it, is be found a particularly wide selection of couturier perfumes, from the widely known Chanel things, to the Poiret's, the Lanvins, and so on. My particular predilection at present is for Lanvin's J'en Raffole, but this, you must understand, is purely personal."

Fragrance Composition:

J'en Raffole, classified as a floral fragrance for women, invites an air of intrigue and sophistication. Unfortunately, without published notes or a sample, its precise scent profile remains a mystery. However, given its classification and the perfume trends of the 1920s, we can speculate about its composition.

Typically, a floral fragrance of this era would feature a rich bouquet of blossoms, likely highlighting classic flowers such as jasmine, rose, and violet. The fragrance might include softer, more delicate notes of lily of the valley or honeysuckle to add depth and complexity. The emphasis would be on creating an elegant and captivating scent that aligns with the refined tastes of women in the 1920s.

In keeping with the period's penchant for sophisticated blends, J'en Raffole might have combined these floral notes with subtle hints of spicy or powdery undertones, possibly incorporating elements like sandalwood or musk to enhance its allure and longevity. This would create a fragrance that is both enchanting and enduring, suitable for the modern woman who sought to make a stylish impression. The name J'en Raffole suggests a perfume designed to be utterly captivating, leaving a lasting impression on those who experience it.

Bottles:

The perfume was housed inside of the Sevres porcelain boule flacons. They were made to order and contained extracts of Lanvin's leading perfumes - Lajea, La Dogaresse, My Sin, Le Chypre, Comme Ci Comme Ca, J'En Raffole and later, the most famous of all, Arpege.

Fate of the Fragrance:

J'en Raffole by Lanvin was discontinued, likely by 1930. The discontinuation of this fragrance reflects the rapidly changing landscape of the perfume industry during the early 20th century. The 1920s were a time of significant evolution in fragrance preferences, driven by shifting cultural and social dynamics. As the decade progressed, new trends and innovations in scent formulations emerged, often leading to the phasing out of older fragrances.

The discontinuation of J'en Raffole may have been influenced by these broader industry shifts. As Lanvin adapted to evolving tastes and introduced new perfumes, older offerings like J'en Raffole were gradually retired. This was a common practice as perfume houses sought to remain relevant and competitive in a market that was increasingly focused on novelty and modernity.

Today, J'en Raffole remains a piece of fragrance history, representing a snapshot of the 1920s perfume scene. Its discontinuation adds to its allure and rarity, making surviving bottles highly coveted by collectors and perfume enthusiasts interested in exploring the olfactory heritage of that era.